Before the lodge: the early history of Bialowieza forest and estate
The estate on which the palace was built stands some 150
miles northeast of Warsaw, near the
towns of Brest-Litovsk and Białystok. Bounded
and cleaved by the Lesnaya, Belaya,
Hwozna, and Narewka Rivers, this estate-considered the finest shoot in
Europe-comprised in Tsarist days a carefully maintained quarter-million
acres-all that remained of the primeval forests that had once covered the whole
of Europe. Białowieża Forest –
Belovezhskaia Puschcha or Białowieska Puszcza - had long been a favorite retreat for hunting, and became
a protected site very early in its history. Few people had lived there,
and
until the 14th century there were no roads at all: those who braved
its silent green depths used the rivers to get about. In the 15th Century, the
Lithuanian Dukes of the Jagiełlo Dynasty had built a lodge here; the forest was
then Lithuanian territory, and its bison and other fauna were a welcome food
reserve for a marching army skirmishing with predatory neighbours. Later, Sigismund the Old built a lodge here,
declaring the forest a hunting reserve, and instituted the death penalty for
poaching of bison. When Poland
and Lithuania
merged to form a united kingdom
under the Jagiełlo family, the kings continued to use the lodge.
Years passed,
and the monarchy became elective, its throne occupied by a turbulent succession
of German or Swedish princes and Polish nobles, but the forest retreat remained
in favour. Wladyslaw IV Vasa, Poland’s
second elected king, freed the peasants there from both serfdom and taxation,
on condition that they acted as royal servants in the hunt and took care of the
forest.

King Augustus III (a prince of Saxony, by
birth) was particularly famous for his hunts, to which he invited an assortment
of European royalty, and which were commemorated by an obelisk with Polish and
German inscriptions recording that on one day in 1752 the king and his party
had killed "
42 European bisons, i.e. 11 great ones, the heaviest of which was 14
quintals 50 pounds, 7 smaller ones; 18 European bison cows; 6 calves; 13 elks,
i.e. 6 great ones, the heaviest of which was 1 quintal 75 pounds, 5 females, 2
young ones; 2 roe-deer. In total: 57 animals".
Before the hunt, the animals were herded into a special enclosure called
Augustowy Sad (Augustus’s Garden) by the hunt staff.
The monarchs stood on a platform, constructed
especially for the purpose and, at a sign, the battue staff drove the animals
in front of their guns.
A memoirist
mentioned that Empress Maria-Josefa of
Austria
killed twenty European bison herself while reading a French novel in the
intervals between shooting.
Augustus
extended the old wooden lodge, as did Stanislaw II, always eager to surround himself
with the external trappings of a grand monarchy. But by King
Augustus’s day, Poland’s
status as an independent kingdom was in decline. The terrible internecine struggles of the
impoverished aristocracy, coupled with international interference in every
royal election, had rendered the nation ungovernable. Stanislaw II Poniatowski, destined to be the last king, was
elected with Russian support, and he did his best to hold Russia,
Austria, and Prussia
back from Poland’s
borders. His efforts were in vain: early
in his reign areas of Poland
were seized by the great powers, and in the end he was deposed when the
Russians - in the name of Catherine the Great, his former lover-swept into Warsaw
and removed him from the throne. In the partition
of what remained, Białowieża Puszcza fell under Russian control, and one of the
first acts of Catherine’s successor - her son Paul, who believed himself
(erroneously) to be Stanislaw’s son -was to reduce the local peasants to the
status of serfs. Many of the early
settlers of the forest had come from western Poland
and were Catholic, but the arrival of the Russians introduced a strong Orthodox
element still apparent today in the onion domes of Białowieża
Forest’s main town, Hajnowka.
There was a
brief respite under Alexander I, who respected Poland’s
separate status and regarded himself as its king rather than conqueror. He reintroduced the hunting preserve, but the
hunting lodge itself was destroyed in his reign by Napoleon’s troops on their way to invade Russia. In 1830, a Polish
national uprising in turn led Nicholas I to
abolish the gamekeeper posts in retaliation, and the preserve fell into
disarray. Russian soldiers
defending the estate against Polish nationals took up their positions on the site of the former lodge, a hill known in future
as the "Batarejka" for its role in the fighting.

The
estate in 1826 after the destruction of the orginal lodge, with the "Batarejka" Oak
Hill - the future site of the imperial palace - in the foreground. The
obelisk to King Augustus is just visible on the left of the picture

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